Mount Shasta, a solitary sentinel in Northern California’s dramatic landscape, commands attention with its sheer, unadorned height. Unlike its mountainous neighbors, Shasta stands alone, its snow-capped summit piercing the sky and visible from a hundred miles south, a stark white beacon above the rolling oak savanna. This imposing isolation inevitably draws comparisons to Tolkien’s Lonely Mountain, a sentiment underscored by the presence of a massive, twenty-foot dragon sculpture adorning the plains to its north. Beyond its iconic silhouette, Mount Shasta is a repository of seven named glaciers, including the Whitney Glacier, the longest in California and the first in the continental United States to be scientifically identified by modern researchers. Clarence King, who led the inaugural U.S. Geological Survey expedition to its summit, aptly described Shasta in The Atlantic Monthly as a "colossal cone of a burned-out volcano, springs upward from a plain… bearing upon its summit a cap of solid white." Historical photographs, such as one from September 11, 1870, vividly depict the Whitney Glacier, its icy mass fissured with deep crevasses, a testament to its former grandeur.
Today, however, these magnificent glaciers, like so many others across the Western United States, are in a state of rapid retreat. For centuries, glaciers have symbolized permanence, their unhurried progression captured in the idiom "glacial pace." Yet, in the span of human lifetimes, this perceived steadfastness is dissolving. A child born today might easily mistake Shasta’s diminished and fragmented glaciers for their natural state, a phenomenon scientists term "shifting baseline syndrome." This psychological adaptation to deteriorating environmental conditions, often referred to as "the great-getting-used-to," allows gradual ecological losses to become imperceptible.
Fortunately, a powerful method exists to counteract this environmental amnesia: comparative re-photography. For approximately 140 years, individuals have meticulously revisited the same vantage points, decade after decade, to capture images of Mount Shasta’s glaciers. These enduring photographic records serve as irrefutable evidence of climate change’s profound impact on Earth’s landscapes. Even in an era saturated with digitally fabricated imagery, the stark reality presented by a century-long visual archive remains compelling. Such historical documentation is crucial in combating the "shifting baseline syndrome" and fostering an appreciation for environmental preservation. The most potent antidote to ecological forgetfulness lies in the safeguarding of history, manifested through a diverse array of primary sources. These "first drafts of natural history" can include photographs, personal journals, scientific field notes, antique maps, landscape paintings, and even historical property records. The critical challenge, however, is ensuring the survival of these precious materials, which themselves risk becoming as ephemeral as the natural features they chronicle.
A dedicated citizen-scientist, Phil Rhodes, has been at the forefront of this crucial re-photography effort for Mount Shasta’s glaciers since the 1970s, amassing what is likely the most extensive private collection of such images. Now in his seventies, Rhodes, a tall, lean, and earnest individual, cultivated an early passion for the natural world during his childhood explorations of Corte Madera Creek in Mill Valley, California. His initial encounter with the Whitney Glacier in 1972, while pursuing a geology degree at Humboldt State University (now Cal Poly Humboldt), proved transformative. "I quickly became aware that the glaciers on Mount Shasta were acting in a very unusual manner," Rhodes recounted, "And that led into a lot of scientific investigation as to why the glaciers were behaving the way they were."

Inspired by the book Exploring Glaciers—With a Camera, Rhodes established his inaugural photo station near the Whitney Glacier in 1974. Over time, he expanded his project, setting up additional sites to document other significant glaciers on the mountain, including the Bolam, Hotlum, and Wintun, bringing the total to fourteen distinct locations. He viewed his work as a continuation of a rich tradition of amateur naturalists who, like John Muir, possessed profound scientific insight without holding formal professional credentials. Between 1983 and 1988, Rhodes resided in the town of Mount Shasta, spending his summers as the caretaker of a mountain hut that serves as a staging point for climbers ascending the peak. Even after relocating to the San Francisco Bay Area to manage his family’s shipping-export business, he remained steadfast in his commitment, undertaking the solitary four-and-a-half-hour drive north each year to meticulously document the glaciers. "What I did was try to make this definable by setting up these photo stations: taking the same photo year after year after year," he explained. "You can look at these photos, and you can see changes."
Eventually, life’s demands necessitated a transition for the glacier photography project. In the early 2000s, Rhodes entrusted his collection to a graduate student in Portland State University’s Geology Department. Subsequently, around 2015, the responsibility shifted again, passing to eager Forest Service rangers seeking a new undertaking. It was in this capacity that I found myself accompanying Forrest Coots, a Forest Service seasonal ranger, on a spring weekend expedition to witness a photo station firsthand.
Coots, a native of the Mount Shasta region, possesses an intimate knowledge of the mountain, his personal baseline of change extending back to his earliest childhood memories. As we navigated the rugged backroads on the mountain’s north side, he shared his observations of the dramatic ecological transformations he had witnessed in his lifetime. Born in 1981, Coots recalled a childhood where the arrival of winter was an unquestioned certainty. "I remember, as a kid, you never doubted that winter would come," he stated, contrasting it with a recent winter where "We went 36 days without any precipitation. Like, dry as a bone."
Our journey led us to the edge of a sandy wash, where the dirt road terminated near a weathered sign marking the boundary of the Mount Shasta Wilderness. Donning our boots and shouldering our packs, we began our ascent. While most climbers approach Shasta from the south, the north side presented a wild, untrodden expanse. Coots guided us with an intuitive blend of mountaineering skill and ingrained knowledge, traversing gullies, avalanche chutes, and dense stands of pine, many of which bore the marks of drought and stress with their browning needles. He gestured toward the southeast, indicating the Bolam Glacier. "That’s the Bolam Glacier," he declared with a somber certainty. "I doubt it will be here at the end of my lifetime. The Hotlum—maybe. The Whitney—maybe. But not the Bolam. It’ll be gone."
Having ascended beyond the tree line, we entered a stark realm of rock, dirt, and ice. Coots led us to a rocky shelf overlooking a small, frozen pond. Above us, the Whitney Glacier gleamed, its ice a brilliant white tinged with an ethereal blue. "We’re here," he announced, "This is the spot." It took a moment to register the significance of our location. Coots pointed to a modest, salmon-colored boulder at the edge of the shelf. Photo Station Whitney #1, as it turned out, was an unassuming, ordinary rock, indistinguishable from countless others, situated in the vastness of the wilderness. This seemingly insignificant stone had served for decades as a silent witness to a changing world. Yet, the solid rock itself, an anchor for understanding the history of one of California’s most iconic peaks, was now held precariously by the fragile thread of human memory.

During my time with Coots, I began to fully appreciate the narrative of the Mount Shasta glacier comparative photography project. It is a remarkable testament to citizen science and resourceful dedication, a collective effort to resist the encroaching tide of ecological amnesia. The immense dedication of Rhodes, whom Coots aptly described as "the foremost expert on Shasta’s glaciers," in meticulously documenting these vanishing natural forces, often at his own expense and during his personal time, is truly inspiring. This is how environmental memory is preserved across generations: through the often-unheralded efforts of individuals committed to safeguarding invaluable recollections.
However, the continuity of memory is not always assured. A significant portion of Rhodes’s Mount Shasta photographs from 2015 to 2019 were lost when a thumb drive containing them was misplaced, a loss that, according to Coots, left Rhodes "distraught." The project experienced further disruption when Coots departed his Forest Service position the summer after our excursion. Responsibility for the re-photography then fell to Nick Meyers, the lead climbing and wilderness ranger for Mount Shasta. Yet, persistent staffing shortages and challenging weather conditions have impeded his team’s ability to maintain the photographic record. Meyers reported in an email that in 2023 and 2024, they managed to photograph only "a handful" of the sites, with many missed in 2025. While the project has not ceased entirely, Meyers noted, "we don’t always have the capacity" to reach all locations, though he affirmed the agency’s continued commitment and openness to volunteer assistance. For the present, the photo station at the base of the Whitney Glacier has reverted to its primordial state: a simple, unremarkable rock.
A partial collection of Rhodes’s Mount Shasta photographs had previously been transferred to Andrew Fountain, a distinguished glaciologist at Portland State University. However, even this transfer represented a kind of evidentiary limbo. Fountain has amassed over 10,000 glacier photographs throughout his career, some of which are accessible on his website, Glaciers of the American West. Nevertheless, a substantial number remain unseen, stored on data servers and hard drives. While Glaciers of the American West offers a valuable resource for observing glacier recession through comparative photography, its interface is cumbersome, image navigation is challenging, and the site has not been updated in years, a situation Fountain attributes to a lack of resources, particularly in his retirement. Visitors attempting to access the Mount Shasta photo galleries within the Glacier RePhoto Project are met with a 404 error message, and similar issues plague the galleries for Mount Hood and Mount Rainier. "I’d like to get that site going again," Fountain expressed with a palpable weariness.
If a glacier melts into oblivion from a mountain, and there is scant publicly accessible visual evidence of its existence, did it ever truly exist? Fountain confessed that for much of his career, he maintained an "academic remove" from such existential questions. However, he eventually recognized that "in the near future, like maybe 2070 or whatever, glaciers will get so small that nobody will read my work." This sobering realization plunged him into "a certain depression." He elaborated, "In a way, frankly, it is encouraging me to work a little more feverishly, because right now what I’m doing is developing an inventory of all the glaciers in the Western U.S., trying to tie down where they all are and how big they are. It might be a map of what times used to be."
As Coots and I descended from the Whitney Glacier, the pervasive sound of melting ice and rushing water filled the air. The spring melt was in full swing, and countless rivulets cascaded downhill. The glacier was visibly shrinking beneath our feet, and we were the sole witnesses to its silent demise. A narrative endures only as long as it is retold; our histories, much like glaciers, remain alive only when they continue to move and evolve.

