The author’s former home in Montana’s Rattlesnake Valley, a neighborhood built over what residents knew to be burial plots, served as a stark reminder of a history deliberately obscured. Whispers of unearthed bones were common, yet the precise identities of those interred remained a subject of varying, often incomplete, local lore. This awareness coalesced in 2023, a year marked by the passage of a high-altitude Chinese balloon across North American skies, drawing particular attention to Montana’s vast and strategically sensitive landscape.
The incident quickly ignited a firestorm of political rhetoric. Republican Congressman Matt Rosendale succinctly captured the prevailing sentiment during a cable news appearance, declaring, "We are being invaded on all sides." This sentiment was echoed and amplified by Senator Jon Tester, a prominent figure in Montana politics, whose family history was deeply rooted in the state’s agricultural heritage. Weeks after the balloon incident, Senator Tester spearheaded a bipartisan committee tasked with investigating the alleged "Chinese spy balloon." This investigation fueled his advocacy for stringent measures against China, including a federal prohibition on Chinese individuals acquiring land in the United States.
In an interview with NPR, Senator Tester articulated his concerns, stating, "Any company and any individual living in China that comes and tries to buy land can be controlled by the Chinese Communist Party because they have that kind of control over their people." He further elaborated on this perspective, adopting a preemptive stance: "Guilty until proven innocent – let’s put it that way."

From this charged political atmosphere emerged a rare, albeit concerning, bipartisan consensus: China was identified as the paramount threat to American life and values. This narrative bore a striking resemblance to the historical "Yellow Peril" anxieties that had once gripped the nation. At the time, the author perceived China as a distant concern, overshadowed by the immediate realities of daily life in Montana—rent payments, fuel costs, and the enduring challenge of winter survival. Political pronouncements on China were largely dismissed as opportunistic maneuvering, a familiar tactic leveraging xenophobia for electoral gain.
However, a pivotal moment arrived during a hike with a neighbor deeply interested in local history. From a vantage point in the mountains overlooking the Missoula Valley, the neighbor pointed out the subtle topography of the land. He revealed that beneath the burgeoning residential areas lay a forgotten Chinese cemetery, a silent testament to a history far more embedded in Montana’s soil than any aerial intrusion. The Chinese were not an invading force, but rather an integral, albeit buried, part of the very landscape the author inhabited.
This revelation marked the beginning of a profound personal quest. Driven by a desire to understand how a burial ground could become the foundation for modern homes, the author delved into dusty archives and oral histories at the University of Montana’s Mansfield Library. The objective was to unearth the narrative of Montana’s Chinese community, to reconstruct a forgotten chapter of state history, and, in doing so, gain a deeper understanding of Montanans themselves.
The author’s own family history was shaped by the complexities of immigration and identity. Grandparents arrived in America from Korea in 1972, a move that spared their son the overt markers of foreignness but left him with a complicated sense of belonging. As a child, the author’s father frequently invoked "As Koreans, we…"—a phrase understood in retrospect as an attempt to navigate his connection to his homeland, a struggle that the author would later inherit as a sense of dispossession.

Moving to Montana the day after high school graduation, the author took a job on Senator Tester’s campaign, drawn by the senator’s proud assertions of his family’s long-standing connection to the land. The author’s own home felt distant, perhaps nonexistent, as they embarked on a new life in Big Sky Country, embracing the familial adage, "As Koreans, we work hard to make a home."
That election cycle transformed into a referendum on authenticity, pitting Senator Tester against his opponent, Matt Rosendale, in a contest to define the "Authentic Western Man." Both candidates adopted archetypal Western personas, complete with cowboy boots, rugged appearances, and gun-toting campaign advertisements. Rosendale cultivated the image of a rancher, while the West, as the author was learning, presented itself as a place where identity could be forged anew, even for those who had recently relocated from elsewhere.
Campaign rhetoric escalated with challenges exchanged between the campaigns. Rosendale’s camp proposed a fence-building contest, while Tester’s team dared Donald Trump Jr., a surrogate for Rosendale, to a rock-hauling competition. Neither challenge was accepted. This period marked the author’s introduction to Montana’s perceived values: grit, physical strength, and a deep-rooted connection to the land, seemingly quantifiable and demonstrable. A campaign mailer featuring Tester with a firearm, emblazoned with the words "Our Heritage," conveyed a message of inherited legacy wielded as a symbol of power—a nuance that had not yet fully registered. The author’s tears of joy upon Tester’s victory underscored a profound, perhaps naive, belief in the state’s political ideals.
Years passed. The author engaged in unsuccessful Democratic gubernatorial campaigns and later lobbied for the ACLU at the state Legislature. Then, the arrival of the Chinese balloon reignited anti-Chinese rhetoric, coinciding with the author’s discovery of the burial grounds beneath their neighborhood.

Research revealed that in the late 19th century, individuals of Chinese descent constituted nearly a quarter of Montana’s population, establishing communities and livelihoods in virtually every town, from remote mining camps to the bustling city of Butte. These early Chinese immigrants ran popular restaurants, fostered relationships with their white neighbors, and formed fraternal and secret societies. They operated laundromats and grocery stores, and crucially, they were instrumental in the construction of the railroad. Their labor, blasting through treacherous mountain terrain, came at a steep cost, with their fatalities far exceeding those of their white counterparts. As the Helena Daily Independent reported, "There are probably 1,000 Chinese buried, who worked for the railroad company between Spokane Falls and Helena… Verily the road was built with Chinaman’s bones."
Federal and state laws actively discriminated against the Chinese, prohibiting them from mining precious metals, obtaining citizenship, and even establishing families. In 1892, as politicians campaigned nationwide to renew the Chinese Exclusion Act, workers in Missoula, inflamed by anti-Chinese sentiment, took matters into their own hands. Following anti-Chinese riots across dozens of Western towns, Missoulians targeted their own Chinatown. Historical records offer sparse details, save for a recollection in the Federal Writers Project’s "Montana: A State Guide Book," which noted: "In 1865 many Chinese came in from the Cedar Creek placer diggings but left after four of their number were killed by white laborers in 1892." The names of these victims remain unknown, and their remains, if recovered, likely found their resting place in the Rattlesnake Valley.
Despite these formidable barriers, the Chinese community strived to build a life in Montana. They celebrated Chinese New Year with fireworks and held elaborate funeral processions to honor their dead, events that often drew thousands of curious onlookers. In Missoula, these processions concluded at the base of Mount Jumbo, where the deceased were laid to rest beneath what is now a residential area. Each grave was marked with a headstone, intended as a vital marker for eventual exhumation 12 years later and repatriation to ancestral plots in China, a crucial element of their customs. However, the community was ultimately driven out, and their bones never returned home. Over time, the cemetery fell into neglect, and the headstones were removed. By 1910, real estate advertisements touted prime investment opportunities on land developed directly atop the former burial ground.
The question arises: How far has Montana truly progressed beyond the violent politics that characterized the "winning" of the West? If the state’s congressional delegation is to be believed, China represents the most significant threat to their way of life. This rationale underpinned the Montana Legislature’s passage of two anti-Chinese bills in 2023: HB 602, which banned state contracts with Chinese manufacturers, and SB 419, a pioneering statewide prohibition on the Chinese-owned app TikTok. A bill that echoed the past with particular poignancy—HB 755, which sought to prohibit certain Chinese individuals from purchasing land in Montana—ultimately failed.

In America, a pattern emerges of paving over uncomfortable truths to construct a more palatable historical narrative. The reality of how foundational American "greatness" was built upon the subjugation and enslavement of racialized "others" is often difficult to confront. The decision of whom to remember, and indeed what to remember, hinges on whose lives are deemed valuable. The Chinese community’s final resting place beneath the asphalt of the author’s neighborhood was not an accident; it was a direct consequence of the American way of life, a history of paranoia, racism, and violence. After years of advocacy, including letters and testimony before the Missoula City Council, the city approved the dedication of a plaque commemorating the Chinese cemetery.
A ceremony took place in early summer at a small park in the lower Rattlesnake neighborhood. City staff adorned the trees with Chinese paper lanterns, and attendees brought white chrysanthemums. Approximately 50 people gathered for the occasion. The author read a poem, "Indian Graves at Jocko," by Richard Hugo, a renowned Montana poet who resided in the Rattlesnake. The poem concludes with the lines: "Dead are buried here because the dead will always be obscure, wind the one thing whites will always give a chance." Cement was poured, and the plaque was installed, met with applause from the assembled crowd.
For the Chinese community forced from Montana, the four men murdered in Missoula, and the countless others whose remains were forgotten, this plaque offers no true justice. However, for Missoula, the author’s home, it represents a commitment to acknowledging the historical violence inflicted upon the Chinese, a beacon on the dim path toward historical redemption. The plaque stands as a promise: the distant possibility remains that communities can learn to coexist with mutual respect on this land.

